WRAP IT UP NOW It sounds complicated, but cooking fish en papillote is actually one of the easiest ways to ensure a succulent result.
Photo: TARA O'BRADY FOR THE WALL STREET JOURNALThe Chef: Michael Tusk
His Restaurants: Quince, Cotogna and Verjus, all in San Francisco
What He’s Known For Mastering: Italian cooking with technical rigor. A commitment to just-picked produce that makes his partnership with the farm that supplies his restaurants a true collaboration..
WHEN THE NAME of a dish includes “en papillote,” you know you’re in for a show. “I like preparations with a theatrical element,” said chef Michael Tusk. In his second Slow Food Fast recipe, halibut fillets steam-roast in parchment-paper parcels—as “en papillote” indicates—along with smashed tomatoes and slivers of snow pea. “At the table it’s snipped open, and all the steam comes up in a cloud,” said Mr. Tusk. “That’s the theater. And it’s really simple.”
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To guarantee no air escapes during cooking, the chef suggests forming the paper packets atop rectangles of aluminum foil so you can fold the foil up over the edges and crimp to seal. Most any fish works here, as long as it’s filleted a half inch thick. (If yours isn’t, simply adjust the cooking time.) Fattier species are more fail-proof and less likely to dry out during cooking.
After you open the parcels, you’ll drizzle on an oregano sauce punched up with garlic and lemon. It brings a nice boost of flavor—not to mention flair.
Halibut With Cherry Tomatoes and Snow Peas En Papillote
Total Time: 25 minutes
serves: 4
Ingredients
- 4 (½-inch-thick) halibut fillets (about 6 ounces each)
- Kosher salt
- 2 lemons
- 3 tablespoons minced fresh oregano
- 2 cups halved cherry tomatoes
- 1 teaspoon red-wine vinegar
- 7 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for drizzling
- 3 cloves garlic, minced or finely grated
- 1 cup thinly sliced snow peas
- 4 tablespoons white wine
Directions
- Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Salt fish on both sides. Finely grate zest of 1 lemon over fillets. Sprinkle on 1 tablespoon oregano.
- In a bowl, toss tomatoes with vinegar and 3 tablespoons oil. Stir in 2 minced garlic cloves and season with salt. Lightly crush tomato mixture until juices pool in bowl. Toss in snow peas.
- Arrange each halibut fillet on a rectangle of parchment paper, leaving a 2-inch border all the way around. Place each parchment rectangle on a rectangle of aluminum foil, leaving a 1-inch border of foil all around. Spoon tomato-snow pea mixture and some of juices over fish. Pour 1 tablespoon wine over each fillet.
- Top each serving with a second paper rectangle of equal size to the first, and fold edges to make a parcel. Fold foil over edges and crimp to seal. Place parcels on 2 baking sheets and bake until paper puffs and browns and fish is easily pierced with a knife and flakes when prodded, about 15 minutes.
- In a mortar, combine remaining oregano and garlic. Finely grate in zest of 1 lemon. Add juice of 1 lemon and remaining oil. Smash with pestle to form a chunky sauce. Add more lemon juice, oil and salt to taste.
- Cut open parcels at table and drizzle oregano sauce over contents. Serve with new potatoes, salad or both.
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