SO RAD The sleeper hit of this spread: grilled radishes, surprisingly sweet and succulent.
Photo: Christina Holmes for The Wall Street Journal, Food Styling by Caitlin Haught Brown, Prop Styling by Vanessa VazquezThe Chef: Marcelle Afram
Her Restaurants: Compass Rose and Maydan, both in Washington, D.C.
What she’s known for: Drawing on her family history and culinary training to explore the nuances of different Middle Eastern cuisines. Deftly working over open fire.
“FAMILY-STYLE” defines this dish from chef Marcelle Afram in more ways than one. It’s a riff on one she makes at Maydan, in Washington, D.C.: whole grilled fish and radishes with shatta, an electric-green Middle Eastern sauce of cumin, orange zest, cilantro, parsley, scallions and a good splash of vinegar. “Tear off some flatbread, pick off the meat and dip it in the sauce,” the chef advised.
Ms. Afram grew up with this kind of casual feasting, in a close-knit Assyrian community outside D.C. “My grandfather would catch a fish and we’d eat this outside,” she said. “He found the sauce in his travels and then made it his own.”
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When grilling, you’ll know it’s time to flip the fish when it releases from the grate. Gauge for doneness by prodding. “The meat will be tough initially, and then it softens and gives,” Ms. Afram said. It’s done when the tip of a knife inserted at the thickest point emerges warm.
It’s a hands-on, intuitive way of cooking—and eating too. Plates and utensils are optional. Well-chilled beverages and napkins are mandatory.
Whole Grilled Fish with Charred Radishes and Spiced Herb Sauce
Total Time: 30 minutes
serves: 4
Ingredients
- 2 whole dorade or branzino, about 1½ pounds each, gutted and scaled
- Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 1 tablespoon sumac
- 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon freshly ground cumin
- 1 orange, zest finely grated
- 1 cup cilantro, plus 10 stems
- 1 cup parsley, plus 10 stems
- 1 scallion, thinly sliced
- 2 tablespoons sunflower seeds
- 1 teaspoon freshly ground coriander
- 1 tablespoon Sherry vinegar
- 1 jalapeño, roughly chopped
- 1 cup olive oil, plus more for grill grate
- 8 radishes, tops trimmed
- Grilled flatbread, for serving
- Lemon wedges, for serving
Directions
- Preheat a grill. Thoroughly dry fish and season it all over with salt, pepper, sumac and 1 tablespoon cumin. Slice zested orange into thin rounds and halve the rounds. Stuff fish cavities with a few orange slices plus cilantro and parsley stems. Set fish aside.
- Make the sauce: In a food processor, combine 1 teaspoon cumin, orange zest, cilantro, parsley, scallions, sunflower seeds, coriander, vinegar and jalapeño. Pulse to combine. With motor running, slowly add 1 cup olive oil to form a drizzly consistency. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a serving bowl.
- Soak a paper towel with olive oil and grip with tongs to oil grill grate well. Drizzle olive oil all over fish. Lay fish on grate and grill over indirect medium-high heat until flesh cooks through and skin blisters, 4-5 minutes per side.
- Toss radishes with salt and a drizzle of olive oil. Grill radishes over medium-high heat until they char in spots, about 3 minutes.
- Arrange fish on a platter and discard stuffing. Arrange radishes around fish. Serve with bowl of sauce, grilled flatbread and lemon wedges.
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