The classic Chinese preparation of whole steamed fish is one of the symbolic dishes typically served during Lunar New Year, which starts Feb. 12. This whole black bass, topped with ginger, green onions and fermented black beans, is among the childhood favorites of Brandon Jew, chef-owner of San Francisco’s Michelin-starred Mister Jiu’s, who grew up trailing his grandmother through the markets of the city’s historic Chinatown.

In his ambitious debut cookbook, “Mister Jiu’s in Chinatown: Recipes and Stories from the Birthplace of Chinese American Food” (Ten Speed Press, $40), Jew and co-author Tienlon Ho share fascinating stories of Jew’s family history, including his last name, and reveal the tools and techniques behind Jew’s cooking, including 90 mouth-watering recipes like this fish.

To prevent overcooking, Jew suggests turning off the heat in the last minutes of cooking and letting the steam finish the job. The flesh should not flake but rather “pull off the bone in tender morsels.” He always scores round, fleshy fish to help it cook evenly and steams the fish only until the thickest flesh right behind the gill area is not quite opaque or, as Cantonese cooks say, “translucent like white jade.”

Sizzling Fish

Serves 4

Ingredients

1 tablespoon fermented black beans (optional)

1½-pound whole fish, such as black bass or Tai snapper, gutted and scaled

1 large handful aromatics, such as thinly sliced ginger, green onion tops and/or strips of fresh citrus zest

¼ cup oil with a high smoke point, such as peanut oil

2 tablespoons premium soy sauce or light soy sauce

1-inch piece ginger, peeled and sliced into threads

3 green onions, sliced into threads

Young cilantro sprigs for garnishing

Directions

In a small bowl, cover the black beans (if using) with water, let soak for 30 minutes and then drain.

Prepare a steamer in a wok or a large, lidded pot, and add just enough water to reach the bottom rim of the steamer. Bring the water to a boil over medium-high heat, then lower to a simmer.

Meanwhile, using kitchen shears, cut off the gills and the fins (careful, sharp!) on the top, bottom, and sides of the fish. Run your fingers over the skin, especially near the gills and belly, toward the head to check for any last scales; remove the scales with the edge of a spoon or the back of a knife.

On both sides of the fish, make eight 2-inch-long parallel slits into the flesh, not quite deep enough to hit bone, starting about 1 inch from the gills. Place the fish in a pie plate. (The fish can hang over the edges so long as everything fits in the steamer. If not, cut the fish in half to fit and hope none of your guests are superstitious.) Tuck some of your chosen aromatics into each slit, then stuff the remaining aromatics in the cavity. Top the fish with the black beans.

Place the pie plate in the steamer, cover and steam until the eyeball is opaque and the flesh of the fish is white and flaky at the thickest part near the head and first slit, 10 to 12 minutes.

While the fish is steaming, in a small heavy-bottom saucepan over low heat, slowly warm the oil.

When the fish is ready, remove it with the pie plate from the steamer. (Reassemble as a whole fish if you cut it in two.) Transfer it to a serving platter. Drizzle with the soy sauce, then top with the ginger and green onions. Turn the heat under the oil to high and warm until it just starts to smoke. Immediately pour the oil over the fish, getting as much of the ginger and green onions to sizzle as you can. Garnish with the cilantro and serve with a spoon big enough for drizzling the juices.

— Adapted from “Mister Jiu’s in Chinatown: Recipes and Stories from the Birthplace of Chinese American Food” by Brandon Jew and Tienlon Ho (Ten Speed Press, $40)