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The menu and overall approach to food at SoHo's Vestry, which had been slated to open in the spring, are much the same as chef Shaun Hergatt had planned before Covid-19 led to restaurants being shut down. But the chef is making and serving the food with a renewed sense of purpose.
"It's about time people celebrate and look for something positive," he said. "I want to have an outlet where you can go away from the craziness and get back to some normality for a while."
Hergatt buys very fresh fish and prepares it simply, an approach he traces to his childhood in Australia. He and his grandparents would spend days fishing, then come home to grill their catch. At Vestry, he grills over binchotan charcoal, which imparts a smoky flavor.
Along with the main dishes—which include a chicken and beef entrée in addition to the fish offerings, such as salmon and sea bream—come sides that are filling and tasty. Hergatt loves the caramelized onion rice served with the salmon and thinks customers will begin craving it.
"It's so delicious," he said, "and so simple."
The menu includes small bites—easy snacking for those who don't want a full dinner—as well as a number of cocktails.
Hergatt recruited an enthusiastic staff that has worked alongside him at previous restaurants.
"You have to really push," said Hergatt of the waitstaff's approach to having fewer patrons, "[and] make sure you're a little sharper. I believe in the future and investing in the restaurant business in New York, so we are putting a lot of effort into it."
Both the indoor and outdoor setup meet safety restrictions, with 20 seats inside and 40 outside. Up next for the restaurant: lunch service.
Dinner: 5 to 11 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday; brunch: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Friday through Sunday
Taking inspiration from the city as a whole and the area around Gramercy Park in particular, Salmagundi's menu is intended to mimic the city's cultural diversity. Menu items include small dishes such as double-fried chicken wings; shared dishes such as short ribs with cipollini, shiitake mushrooms, carrots and potato-parsnip mash; and Salmagundi duck confit. There is seating both indoors and out, all following capacity restrictions.
51 Irving Place, Gramercy Park
Upper West Side: 4 to 11 p.m. daily; SoHo: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily
Handmade dumplings are the specialty of this delivery-only shop run by the co-founders of the platform Kitch, which lets cooks rent others' extra restaurant space to launch products or eatery concepts more easily. For City Dumpling, Kitch has partnered with Dumpling Galaxy, a Flushing spot, to create dumplings with fillings including pork and chive, lamb and cilantro, chicken and broccoli, and vegetable. There are plans to expand in Manhattan soon.
502 Amsterdam Ave., 25 Cleveland Place and 115 E. 23rd St., but sites are delivery only within Upper West Side, SoHo and Flatiron District
Clinton Street and Waverly Place: 1 to 7 p.m. daily; Canal Street: noon to 6 p.m. daily
Three locations of this bubble tea and bingsoo (Korean shaved ice) sundae café are opening downtown at once. The owners, friends from college, have focused on the process of preparing the cassava root "bubbles" in the tea. Inspiration for the flavors come from their respective Taiwanese and Korean childhoods. There's black milk, jasmine milk, lychee and blackberry sage. The bingsoo sundaes are made with oat milk and ingredients such as red bean preserve, mocha and condensed milk.
23 Clinton St., 11 Waverly Place and 265 Canal St.
Dinner: 5 to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday; lunch: noon to 3 p.m. Saturday and Sunday
Alumni of Austin, Texas, sushi spot Uchiko have come to New York with a sushi tasting menu (15 to 18 courses for $150) and a mission to focus on sustainability and reducing food waste. Local farmers and fishmongers supply ingredients such as miso, herbs, wine and, of course, fish from nearby states. Outside of the tasting menu, dishes include amberjack ceviche with melon, fried shallots and chili-citrus fish sauce; chirashi with seasonal sashimi and roe; and a lobster sushi roll with spicy mayo and avocado.
137 Ave. A, Alphabet City
Noon to 7 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday
Jim Lahey, owner of Sullivan Street Bakery, which has two locations in Manhattan, has opened a third, in the East Village. The pop-up will be around at least through the holidays and has a menu that is a shorter list of the breads and sandwiches Lahey is known for. There's also hot chocolate.
437 Ninth St., East Village
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SoHo spot Vestry serves fish dishes worth celebrating - Crain's New York Business
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