Tinned Fish: Meet the Women Making the Pantry Staple Cool - Condé Nast Traveler

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Now, Millstein and Goldfarb are among a number of female entrepreneurs working to revive the industry and give North American tinned fish a makeover.

“[North American tinned fish] has been owned by these huge companies for such a long time,” says chef Charlotte Langley, co-founder and chief culinary officer of Toronto’s canned seafood company, Scout. “They’ve pushed the artisanal, the creative, and the beauty of it into the garbage.” 

After years working in restaurants across Canada, Langley was determined to make sustainable seafood as accessible as possible. Canning gave her the opportunity to reach a wide audience, while also preventing potential food waste. “Canning captures some of those less-than-gorgeous species at the beginning of the chain,” she says. “I’m rescuing seafood before it hits the grocery store or restaurant.”

Chef Charlotte Langley, who co-founded Scout, wants to make sustainable seafood more accessible.

Brilynn Ferguson

Langley brings out the flavors of the fish through recipes featuring locally sourced ingredients, from PEI mussels in a tomato, fennel, and black pepper sauce, with a spice seasoning that Langley has long used in her own cooking; to rainbow trout with dill and sunflower oil harvested from a farm in Ontario. The creative preparation makes it approachable for those new to tinned fish, and also exciting for those looking to expand their preserved horizons.

For sisters Claire Neaton and Emma Teal Laukitis, local tinned fish has always been in style. Growing up in Alaska, the food was omnipresent. At their wild fish and gear company, Salmon Sisters, Neaton and Laukitis recently began offering frozen wild-caught fish like salmon, cod, and halibut, as well as provisions, like their tinned salmon produced in partnership with Wildfish Cannery, giving customers across the country the opportunity to try Alaskan fish from small, independent boats.

The addition has so far been a success: Over the past year, sales of both their frozen and canned fish have soared, with customers often buying 18 to 32 cans per order, and many others returning for more. Thanks to this newly dedicated customer base, they even see potential for a future subscription model. “It’s been the perfect product,” says Neaton. “It’s just superfood.” 

Claire Neaton and Emma Teal Laukitis, who operate their company Salmon Sisters out of Alaska

Dawn Heumann

Neaton and Laukitis, who fish commercially, have always made it part of their mission to celebrate and share the place and people behind Alaska's seafood. It's a sentiment shared by all three brands. With transparency in mind, the women behind Salmon Sisters, Fishwife, and Scout are working to educate consumers on where, how, and by whom the product is made—whether that’s by printing the name of the fisherman on the box, or using their platforms to teach consumers about sustainable industry practices. “People are wanting to know more about where their food is coming from, and they’re finding out that fish can be a very sustainable food source,” says Laukitis.

Ultimately, the rise of artisanal North American tinned fish is dependent on changing consumers’ perceptions of the product. “There hasn’t been a brand that has said to people, ‘it’s okay to love tinned seafood in the U.S., it’s actually really cool and it’s really sexy and healthy,’” says Fishwife's Millstein. These women are looking to change that.

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