Fried cod sandwich from Oui Melrose.
(Mariah Tauger / Los Angeles Times)
Chef-owner Armen Piskoulian says he ate and dissected a couple of Filet-O-Fish sandwiches before developing his own, which he introduced to the menu at his Melrose Avenue bakery and restaurant in February.
“I thought this could be done so much better, then I started developing the breading for it,” he adds.
Piskoulian soaks his Atlantic cod filets in buttermilk, then coats them in breadcrumbs before frying. The filets are seasoned with Old Bay “and a couple of additions” and topped with house-made dill pickles and a tangy tartar sauce made with chopped cornichon, lots of dill, Worcestershire, mustard, shallots and garlic. Piskoulian’s bun is a buttery brioche/hamburger bun hybrid that he slathers with garlic and herb butter and toasts. While all the components are excellent, the architecture of the sandwich is key. The slice of cheese goes on the bottom, so it isn’t glued to the fish. And the tartar sauce — on the top and bottom of the fish — adds acid and moisture to every bite.
“I want the sauce to be dripping out of the sides so the mouthfeel is just right,” Piskoulian says.
Yes, it is just right.
6909 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 852-3944
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