What is it about the current pandemic that makes people want seafood? I would have thought pizzas, congee, lechon, chicken mafe, and french fries. But no, fish and other seafood are now in especially high demand. Maybe it’s because its aura of healthiness, which dates to the 90s, still lingers. Whatever the reason, lines form at farmers market seafood stands from Riverhead, Greenport, and Montauk, which have the added benefit of being locavoric. And fast food featuring fish has become almost as as popular as burgers. Here is a choice selection of seafood dishes from restaurants that have remained open for takeout and delivery during the epidemic.
Devin’s Fish & Chips
Fried whiting sandwiches are a culinary commonplace in Harlem, and have been so for a century, with fish and chips a close second. Both are served freshly fried with pristine fish at Devin’s, a 20-year-old institution in the Sugar Hill neighborhood. After a fire and a miraculous reopening three years ago, the menu expanded to include steamed fish and lots of vegetables, but you’ll want those excellent fries anyway. 747 St Nicholas Avenue, between 147th and 148th streets, Harlem
Delivery: UberEats
Lan Larb
This restaurant has been lighting up the southeast corner of Soho for five years, offering a concentration of Isan cuisine, with riverine fish and oceanic seafood being prominent choices. The appetizer fish cakes and shrimp rolls can’t be beat, but my favorite is the Isan larb seafood soup, laden with squid, shrimp, and glass noodles in a rich but disarmingly light tamarind broth. 227 Centre Street, between Grand and Broome streets, Soho
Delivery: Caviar
Citarella
Let’s face it, sushi loses much of its charm if one waits more than, say, 30 minutes or an hour to eat it, and remains good for an even shorter period of time on the back of a bike in the upcoming warm weather. Fish specialist Citarella stocks a very nice refrigerated sushi case, which it begins stocking at around 9:30 a.m. Here’s the sushi lover’s hack: Get there promptly in the morning, buy your sushi, and eat it at the park across the street immediately. Sushi for breakfast? Why not? 424 Sixth Avenue, between 10th and 11th streets, Greenwich Village
Delivery: Greenwich Village, Upper East Side, and Upper West Side branches.
Zenon Taverna
For those hungry for octopus, a Greek taverna in Astoria would be among my first recommendations. Zenon specializes in Cypriot fare, and the cephalopod here is as good as it gets, tendered in supple chunks tasting of red wine and oregano. Squeeze on the lemon wedge that comes on the side, and dig in! Or consider the whole, charcoal-grilled branzino imported from Greece, jumbo shrimp, or fried squid. 34-10 31st Avenue, between 34th and 35th streets, Astoria
Delivery: Grubhub, Seamless, UberEats
Le Baobab
The national dish of Senegal is thiebou djenne, known as “cheb” for short. It consists of an herb-stuffed fish with an assortment of vegetables placed on top of a mound of rice flavored with palm oil, tomato paste, and tamarind. Any Senegalese restaurant serves it, but one of the best versions in town is found at Le Baobab in Bed-Stuy, named after a tree sacred to West Africans. There’s a branch in Harlem, too. 1235 Fulton Street, between Arlington Place and Bedford Avenue, Bedford-Stuyvesant
Order here for takeout or delivery.
John’s Deli
Who doesn’t love the bar food staple of fried calamari? The Italian word for squid, calamari is now found all over the world. Traditionally, the fried version is served with a tomato sauce that runs from mild to very spicy, depending on preference. One of the dish’s loveliest permutations is the calamari parmesan hero, predominantly found in Brooklyn and almost no place else. At John’s Deli, the freshly breaded and fried decapod is sluiced with tomato sauce and heaped with melted mozzarella. Fried fish heroes also offered. 2033 Stillwell Avenue, between 86th Street and Avenue T, Gravesend
Delivery: Caviar, DoorDash, Postmates, UberEats
Atlas Kitchen
No dish from Hunan is more famous than fish head in pickled chiles, and eating it should be communal, as diners seated around a table pick at it like ocean birds. Sometimes, the whole fish is served, but just the head is lots more fun, and it gives the broth a stronger flavor and gluer texture if the cranium happens to be large. Atlas Kitchen has a killer version, and lots of other seafood on the menu, too, including the wonderful steamed eggs with seafood. 258 W. 109th Street, between Broadway and Amsterdam Avenue, Upper West Side
Delivery: Seamless, ChowNow, Caviar, Grubhub, Postmastes, DoorDash, UberEats
Summer Salt
At one point, Baja-style fish tacos were becoming popular across town, to the point where even traditional Pueblan cafes started serving them. Sadly, most of the places are currently out of the picture, so check out Summer Salt. Facing Madison Square, it specializes in a California-style fast food approach, and the fish tacos are good, with a vast array of salsas. The fried chicken tacos are good, too, and one of each of both these bulbous tacos makes a nice meal. 30 West 23rd Street, between Fifth and Park avenues, Flatiron
Delivery: DoorDash, UberEats, Grubhub, Postmates, Caviar, ChowNow
Cardamom
The highly spiced Indian cuisine from Goa that this restaurant represents is heavy on the seafood, and especially shrimp, with such dishes as prawn balchao, jumbo tandoori shrimp in the Goan style, shrimp caldin, and a uniquely spiced shrimp cocktail. Don’t miss the fish curry, either. Tucked away on a side street in Sunnyside, the restaurant only does delivery, no takeout. 43-45 43rd Street, between Queens Boulevard and 43rd Avenue, Sunnyside
Delivery: Cardamomny.com
Randazzo’s
When it comes to clams, this ancient seafood shack right on the bay has the territory covered. There are raw clams, fried clams, stuffed clams with plenty of breadcrumbs and Italian spices, clam chowders both red and white, steamers, Sicilian zuppa di clams, and, last but not least, linguine with red or white clam sauce. 2017 Emmons Avenue, between Ocean Avenue and East 21st Street, Sheepshead Bay
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